After notable failures during the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, grapegrowing and winemaking almost disappeared from the Adelaide Hills. A revival began in the 1970s and continued through the 1980s, thanks to pioneers like the Verralls at ‘Glenara’ in Upper Hermitage, Brian Croser at ‘Petaluma’ in Piccadilly Valley, and Stephen George at ‘Ashton Hills’.
As the number of growers increased, they formed loose associations and eventually an Adelaide Hills Wine Region (see map) was officially registered in 1998. The initial criterion for inclusion was sketchy, requiring that vineyards be about 400m above sea level and therefore sharing a comparable moderate climate. But as Stephen George explained: ‘Such simplicity was shortlived for we were soon required by bureaucracy to define the boundaries for export purposes. This was to be done with such accuracy that a grapegrower on one side of a road might be included in a region while his neighbour across the road was precluded’.
The Region is about 70 km from north to south and 30 km from west to east. The Adelaide Hills Council District coincides fairly closely with the northern part of this Wine Region, and the majority of the vineyards and wineries are within the District. The Region has two registered subregions, Lenswood (declared like the bigger region in 1998) and Piccadilly Valley (2000). Here distinctive soils and microclimates contribute to special qualities in the products. Throughout the Wine Region there is increasing attention to the terroir, to the special characteristics of quite small areas.
By 2001 it was estimated that there were 200 grapegrowers in the region, with over 40 winemaking companies. But further developments at that time, such as new vineyards and wineries, and cellar doors, were hampered by concern about the water catchment. This was eventually relaxed and the region boomed even further.
The Hills are especially known for Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Shiraz, and sparkling wines, amongst others, but there is an increasing number of varieties, with some quite obscure and adventurous. Who had heard of Albarino, Fiano, Gruener Veltliner, Nebbiolo?
Despite various setbacks in this century – a wine glut, bushfires, vine diseases, the Covid pandemic, and a political dispute with China that saw exports restricted – the local industry continues overall to thrive. Wines from the Adelaide Hills Region have gained an international reputation. Yet by a hundred years ago it had become received wisdom that the Hills were not suitable for vineyards!
Sources: Stephen George, ‘Modern history of the Adelaide Hills grapegrowing and
winemaking industry’, in Robert Martin (ed.), Views from the Hills: Essays in
the History of the Adelaide Hills, Mount Lofty Districts Historical Society,
2002.
Katie Spain, The Wine Producers: A Taste of Adelaide Hills, Bud Media, 2022; The Advertiser; Piccadilly Valley Vineyards
If you have recollections, knowledge or further information that you would like to share about the people, places or events described here, then please contact us at mldhs@mtloftyhistoricalsociety.org.au
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